Costa Rica: Snakes, San Jose and Sarapiqui

Snakes and snake bites

CR is rich in snakes but you would be lucky to see these shy animals, many of which are not poisonous. Nevertheless, be cautious in especially the lowland rain forest. The biggest poisonous snake is the bushmaster (matabuey) but one of the smaller ones, the eyelash viper also needs caution. It will often curl on branches and even leaves at eye or arm level. My friend and top costa Rican ornithologist Jim Zook was bitten by one in the middle of the Braulio Carrillo National Park. He tied his arm to his body to minimize blood flow, hiked to his car for two hours, and after a week in hospital when his arm was the size of his leg, he made it without any loss, so can you.

Make sure to keep the bitten area as immobile as possible, like you would do with a broken limb. Sucking the venom or cutting the area to get the blood are not effective and increase the spread of venom. Use a tourniquet above the area that is bitten to keep the venom from spreading. One of the most dangerous is fer-de-lance (terciopelo) that often bites campesinos clearing the fields. La Selva research station is particularly rich in snakes, but bites are exceedingly rare. Coral snakes and sea snakes are exceedingly poisonous too, but are quite shy and with small fangs and you would have to try hard to get bitten


Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu and La Selva Biological Station

Until 50 years ago, when the road was completed, this was one of the most remote parts of the country. It still has some amazing forest, very accessible at La Selva biological station, a crown jewel of tropical forest research. Only researchers can stay overnight but you can stay in the town nearby and do day tours with expert local guides. Animals are not hunted so can often be seen in proximity. It is also a fantastic place for birds and snakes. Nearby Selva Verde lodge is also a favorite of wealthy birders.

Rara Avis, designed by the biologist Amos Bien, is a little-visited haven in the middle of 3200 acres of montane rainforest. Reached from the village of Horquetas, 11 miles south of Puerto Viejo De Sarapique, the four-hour hike or tractor ride is half the fun of going there. The resulting seclusion means you will be far from the beaten path and fully lose yourself in the rainforest, while benefiting the local community. Also great birdwatching.

San Jose, the capital

Although San Jose is a pretty disappointing capital for Central America, its climate is quite pleasant. Violent crime is on the rise, with the "Coca-Cola" area and the market especially risky. Also be careful around the bus terminals and stay with your luggage until the bus is ready to leave. Hotel Bougainvilla provides a relaxing oasis if you can afford it. Highly recommended and good-priced is Hotel Amistad http://www.hotelamistad.com/, in a peaceful part of San Jose, close to a great restaurant and within walking distance of the city centre and the zoo. Top choice of scientists passing through. They arrange excellent day tours all over the central valley and up to La Selva. In the city, try to visit Zoo Ave, Jade Museum, Spirogyra butterfly garden and the World of Snakes. Be aware that Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo, Quebrada Gonzales trail (others not very safe) is only one hour away from San Jose and is a great example of Caribbean foothill rainforest. Nearby is the aerial tram, also recommended.